Town or village
Khaplu
Ghanche district · 2,600 m
Khaplu, at 2,600 m, is the old Yabgo capital on the Shyok, and its palace was restored by the Aga Khan trust in 2011.
Khaplu was one of the richest and biggest of the ancient kingdoms of Baltistan. The valley lies on both sides of the Shyok, starting at the village of Kiris and running to the Chinese border and the Karakoram Pass. It is the capital of Ghanche district and, at 2,600 m, is cooler than Skardu, which is welcome in summer. The icy peaks of Masherbrum rise on the other side of the valley and make it an ideal place to stay.
Kind Town or villageDistrict GhancheElevation 2,600 mPosition 35.163° N, 76.344° E
About Khaplu
Khaplu Palace was built by the Yabgo Raja in 1840, replacing an earlier fort nearby. It was renovated by the AKCSP and now operates as a hotel run by Serena. The woodwork and design show Kashmiri influence, which points to the help of Kashmiri craftsmen in building it. Inside, the palace is a labyrinth of rooms on different floors, and there is a museum that is open to people who are not guests as well.
Most people in the valley follow the Noorbuksh sect of Islam. The Chakchan Khanqah in Chakchan village is worth a visit, and locals will tell you it was built after Mir Syed Ali Hamdani met a Buddhist monk.
The people of Khaplu are lively and famous for storytelling, a favourite pastime on long winter nights. Women move freely in the valley and share the work with the men, and the local Balti is said to be a more authentic dialect, so it is a great place to sit down with a cup of tea and listen.
Elsewhere in Ghanche
Swipe along the district, from the valley floor to the summits.